I didn’t like the idea of returning to Batanes. At least, not in the beginning.

It’s not because I did not enjoy my previous trip. Quit
e the contrary. Batanes has always been atop my list of dream Philippine destinations, and when I was finally able to set foot in it in 2014, it gave me much more than I imagined. Site after site, day after day, Batanes blew my mind and snatched my heart. Perfect was a word I had never used to describe a journey, but that’s exactly what it was. It was perfect. I was afraid that a second trip would ruin all my precious, flawless memories of it.

But it could not be helped. We were invited to a wedding there, and our old Batanes Travel Guide seriously needed some updating. With a strange mixture of excitement and nervousness, we went back. In classic Batanes fashion, as soon as we landed, rain poured so hard, we could barely get a clear view of our surroundings. But in a matter of minutes, the sky cleared up and we saw that not much has changed. And in this case, that’s a good thing, a very good thing.

I’ve said this before: When the time comes that you have to leave Batanes, she will break your heart. And I left heartbroken the second time around.

Batanes: What You Need to Know

Remote and isolated, Batanes is the northernmost province in the Philippines. It’s a 10-piece archipelago, with the three biggest islands being the only ones inhabited: Sabtang, Batan, and Itbayat. Sabtang and Itbayat are their own municipalities, while Batan is further divided into Basco, Ivana, Uyugan, and Mahatao. Although it is the capital, Basco isn’t a city but a small town. It is also where the main airport is located and the most populated.

Sabtang, the largest island, is situated 45-minutes by boat from the town of Ivana, while Itbayat, in the extreme north, 3 hours from Basco.

For tourism purposes, the provinces is divided into four zones:

• • North Batan, which is basically Basco.

South Batan

• , which covers the attractions in Uyugan, Mahatao, and Ivana

Sabtang Island

• , can be reached by boat. Day tour from Batan Island is possible, although an overnight stay is highly recommended.

Itbayat Island

, can be reached by boat or plane.

How to Get Around Batanes

BY BICYCLE OR MOTORCYCLE

The bicycle is the cheapest way of going around the island, but make sure you have the stamina to match. The landscape is rugged and a bicycle ride can take you up and down the slopes of rolling hills a hundred times over. Not really a hundred, but you get the point.

Bicycle Rental Rates:

• Old bikes: P25/hour
• Small/Japanese bikes: P300/day
• Mountain bikes: P600-P1000/day (depending on the type and how long you’re gonna use it).
  

  BY TRICYCLE

  For short distances, the tricycle is the most usual mode of transportation. Here are the fares:

  • Within Basco Town Proper: P30
  • From Basco Town Proper to outskirts: P50

  You can also book a tricycle for a full-day tour. This is great if you’re a party of two or more because you can split the costs. The good thing about this is that the driver already know where to go or have bits of local info about the place. The rate is usually P200 per hour. Given the time it takes to tour these zones, here are the estimated (and the usual) trike rates, good for two (2) persons:

  • North Batan: P1000
  • South Batan: P1500
  • Sabtang Island: P1000

  Again, the rates above are good for 2.

  Note that the rates for Sabtang island cover only the tour within the island. Not included are the boat ride and the tricycle transfers from Basco to Ivana port and back.